The Latest in New York

Why the Knish Became New York's Miss Congeniality

"People used to say, 'the streets in New York are paved in gold,'" Laura Silver said to me over the phone. "No they're not. They're paved in knishes." Born in Brooklyn and bred in Queens, Silver is the world's leading authority on the knish, and she knows just how vital it is to Jews'—and New Yorkers'—culinary heritage, even if everyone else forgets about the poor thing. More

The Secrets of Aging Cheese: A Tour of Murray's Cheese Caves

Most of our favorite cheeses have one thing in the common: They tend to have some age. While some cheeses are best eaten the day they're made, others take time. And mold. And the right temperature and humidity. And a bat cave to linger in until they're ready to emerge fully formed. Here's what happens in those caves when the humans aren't watching. More

How Brooklyn's Acme Makes 5,000 Pounds of Whitefish Salad a Day

Imagine if tuna salad had a silky texture and a delicately smoky and oily flavor. That's whitefish salad. Acme Smoked Fish, a standard-bearer of the form and certainly the largest producer in New York City, makes over 5,000 pounds of whitefish salad every day. Wolphram Alpha tells me that's the equivalent of 1.3 small cars or 40% of an elephant. Of fish-mayo salad. Every. Day. More

Why Diners Are More Important Than Ever

I've had a egg- and toast-loaded three months of eavesdropping while eating my way through New York's diners, as many as I could without getting divorced, and have come to the inescapable conclusion that they are as essential to our way of life, our democracy, and our sense of community, as any other American institution we have right now. More

The Better Fruitcake: Baking Stollen at NYC's Bien Cuit Bakery

"It's like a yeasted fruitcake with all of the good stuff and none of the bad," says baker Zachary Golper of his best-in-class stollen. It's a dense, buttery loaf perfumed with citrus zest, orange blossom, and rum. The crumb is stuffed with a delicate almond cream, and the whole thing is "baptized" after baking in a bath of clarified butter, then finished with powdered sugar as fluffy as the season's first snowfall. More

Coconut, Spice, and Everything Nice: 
Learning Old-School Sri Lankan Cooking on Staten Island

The dining room of Staten Island's New Asha is all styrofoam and steam tables. But when you step into the back kitchen, it's a wholly different world. Bamboo steamers gurgle over pots of boiling water and jars of homemade spice blends line the walls. A hand-powered drill and a machete are on hand to transform hirsute whole coconuts into snowy white mounds of freshly ground flesh. More

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